Дрифтеры! Рады продемонстрировать Вам новую карту. Пожалуйста, помните что игра находится в разработке и эта карта не является её окончательной версией.
У игроков будет возможность делать пресеты каждой настройки в автомобиле и объединять их в профиле настроек.
Q: Итак, через 3 месяца мы получим новую бета-версию игры?
A: Мы работаем 24/7. Скрестил пальцы.
Q: Сколько человек работает над проектом?
A: 2 человека на полную ставку и иногда нанимаем фрилансеров.
Q: Список автомобилей.
A: Сейчас нет окончательного списка автомобилей. После обновления мы планируем постоянно добавлять новые авто. Также мы надеемся, что игроки смогут добавлять автомобили через steamworkshop.
Q: Итальянский Автомобиль.
A: У нас есть один итальянский суперкар в списке, но он нуждается в некоторой доработке перед выпуском. Скорее всего успеем его доделать.
Q: Новые обвесы.
A: Да, будут.
Q: Карты для паблик серверах.
A: Монахан был полностью переделан. Так же перед турниром будет доступна соответствующая карта для тренировок.
Q: Частные серверы.
A: Это можно сделать, если в этом есть необходимость, мы хотели бы прочитать, как вы себе их представляете.
Q: Команды \ Кланы.
A: Командная система была протестирована до выхода игры в Steam. Но не был добавлен в версию игры, потому что в ней не было особого смысла. Мы обсудим это с сообществом после выхода бета-версии.
Q: Ошибки, баги.
A: Исправили много багов и продолжаем исправлять.
Q: Новые движки, новые диски.
A: Да, будут.
Q: Новые спойлеры.
A: Да, будут. И теперь спойлеры будут влиять на поведение машины с «прижимной силой».
Q: Слоты на публичных серверах.
A: До 32, но в начале будет меньше, чтобы проверить нет-ли проблем с производительностью.
Q: Гараж команды, позволяющий товарищам по команде настраивать одну машину вместе.
A: Гараж команды уже присутствует и будет добавлен вместе с командами. Что касается совместного тюнинга автомобиля командой, то это на самом деле отличная идея, будем думать об этом.
Q: Открытое бета-тестирование.
A: Да, лучший способ найти все ошибки.
Q: Обновление HOD будет похоже на новую игру.
A: Да, поскольку в новой версии много изменений, как в общем виде, так и в системных требованиях. Я не готов сказать, какими будут системные требования, но я могу сказать, что DX9, вероятно, не будет поддерживаться.
Q: Новые карты.
A: Все сезонные карты серии Formula Drift
High octane drift настройка машины
Hi, welcome to High Octane Drift! By the time you’re reading this guide you might have already started the game, talked to Marcus. Drifted his car (or not), broke his clutch and got your own whip.
So the first thing to note here is that there are alot of ways to start out. You might notice that you have two currencies. One Yellow, called Rupees and one green, appropriately named Greens.
The most classic line while freeroaming in this game is the infamous «How do I get money?». Now first of all, gaining money is not hard. Infact it’s actually pretty easy. All you have to do is click this huge button which says «Play».
Now don’t you get confused yet because there are still alot of things to see and learn. In this menu you will be presented with four different blocks. Practice, Rivals, Events (Which for some reason doesn’t work, which will come back later.) and Fun Stuff.
Free roam spawn point.
So this is the gameplay of High Octane Drift. The physics are sim-arcadish and as such can be had alot of fun with!
So one of the first things you might ask yourself while in your Tezza is «How do I drift this thing?»
Well, fact is there is no definitive answer however I will show you a couple of pointers and techniques that are actually used in real life drifting.
First of all people never drift with Automatic transmissions. So find that damned Gear Mode button! What you will need to focus on then is gear shifting, normally all cars go up to 7000 RPM which is plenty of revs in order to make your wheels spin.
The most common gears to use while drifting is 2nd and 3rd. Once your car has alot of power you can even resort to 4th or 5th!
Handbrake drifting is one of the most common ways of getting a car to slide. To do a handbrake drift all you really need to do is gather some speed, pull the handbrake and turn into the corner.
The handbrake can also be used in many other ways to get more angle, reduce your speed while chasing someone if they’re a bit too slow and to easily transition.
Clutch kicking is a way to «panic drift» if you didn’t get your car to slide in time. What the clutch does is disconnect the power to the wheels which means that when you release the clutch again and had higher revs your whole rear will get a shock and ultimately oversteer.
Brake drifting, is a technique that, instead of using the handbrake requires you to use the brake pedal. To do this all you simply need to do is gather some speed, brake hard, turn into the corner and give the car some gas.
High speed, hard brake
Turn-in and gas
Kansei drifting, also called the Scandinavian Flick is a technique invented by rally drivers in the harsh Scandinavian snow courses. Here you will want to use weight shifting as a means to make the car want to oversteer, you will have to be way more aggressive and really push your car to the limit. To do this all you need to do is drive straight into a corner, steer against the corner, then quickly transfer the weight into the corner.
Shift the weight over to the other side and give it throttle. Note that minimal speed was lost using this technique.
The Scandinavian flick can also be used as a means to transition the car. Also the most point effective way.
Be in the end of a drift during a corner exit.
Aggressively switch to the other side and continue your drift
Well now that you have mastered the art of sliding your car around and actually being able to hold a drift through one whole corner you will start looking for bigger challenges, one of those being maxing out the combo score.
First of we’ll start with Practice which is nothing more than a waste of resources since it costs 10 gas and tires. It’s basically like being thrown into a Rivals battle except there is no rival.
Fun Stuff and particularly Free roam is where the fun happens, this is where you will have time to chat, drift or screw around making either friends or enemies. I recommend to start playing the game here and practice drifting before hopping into any of the rivals matches and get smacked around.
The First server is currently the only server with collision enabled. It’s also the most crowded one but is rarely ever full.
The other servers have no collision enabled and are perfect for beginners to not crash into other peaceful drifters.
The two last servers are in Mikawa which is a map currently only playable in Free-roam.
Infection is a gamemode that nobody plays so there is no need to cover that.
The Rivals menu is where you will spend most your time in the beginning of the game earning Rupees (That’s money for you!) and Experience points which you will use to level up.
The first field is called Tandem in which you are thrown into a versus battle against a realtime opponent, battling out which one makes the most points. One starts leading and the other one chases earning points depending on how close to the leader they are drifting. The roles are later switched in round two.
On the end of the match you will see who came out on top and then have the choice to pick between three cards which give you different awards.
Pick a card.
The second and fastest way to earn money is called Local Tandem. The difference between a normal and a Local Tandem is that in Local Tandem you will come up against the «best players» in a ghost match, that means the ones who scored the highest in their corresponding Class. Which means that your opponent is NOT in real time. Sounds confusing but you will understand soon enough..
So the Events are the third way to earn Rupees, Experience and best of all, Greens!
Found in the Community tab, the Events tab contains three Events in you can only partake in two.
Currently available Events.
The first one is the B-Class Championship in which you will need a car with class B or less.
The second one is the A to X-Class Pro Championship where you need a car with Class-A or more.
The last event is the Skill Battle.
The Skill Battle is unique in the way that everyone uses the same car and are pitted against eachother for the top prize, the car itself.
Switched between a Mustang and a Camaro the winner takes the car home.
The Event however has a huge catch, whatever car you were using when entering the Skill Battle has their engine thrown into the Muscle Car. So if you were to have a 2JZ E39 that very 2JZ will be swapped into the Mustang in the Event. Don’t get scared, the engine is safe in the E39.
Will you be the owner of a Muscle Car?
Once you take the car home it will have it’s designated engine.
The Marcus Challenges are a series of events that update on a monthly basis and cover a wide variety of tasks with awesome rewards.
To access this field you must first go to the Community tab, Events and then Special.
Marcus challenges award Rupees, Greens and for those who complete the whole challenge various treats. In this case, completing the challenge awards you with an Exclusive Wheel Coupon.
Rupees and Greens in one picture, located at the top right in the menu screen.
Nothing much to say. Rupees and Greens are the only two currencies in this game and are used for various things.
Do keep in mind that Greens are a valuable resource and should be used sparingly.
Micromanaging your Gas & Tires is just as important as keeping your cars durability in check.
Once your Gas or Tires reaches 0 you will not be able to play any Rivals or Events.
Normally when you buy a car it will always have Street Tyres equipped in the front and back.
The green circle shows where to change your tyre compound.
What tyre compound you want to use is dictated between what you want out of your car.
A drift car is best with Sport tyres all around.
A grip oriented car is best setup with Track tyres all around.
Oil changes are something that happens every once in a while.
When an oil change is needed you will notice an orange glowing check oil light.
There is no noticeable difference between oils except for the durability you get from them, if you were to use the Tier 1 Fill’N’Go oil your cars wearout will be considerably higher than if you were to use the Tier 5 SuperSport.
High wearout warning, note the engine wearout being red with a value of 17.
Unless you love micromanaging, which I am confident that you’re not since you’re playing a racing game focused on drifting, you should always try and keep your engine wearout as low as possible, this also goes for the differential and the transmission.
Keep in mind that the more damage your car takes the more expensive the repairs are going to be. In other words if you keep overtuning your engine you will reach a point where you will pay more money repairing it after races than you’re going to earn.
Nothing much to say here. This is where your inventory is.
Make sure to never have a full warehouse otherwise those tickets you earn after a race is waste.
Two 2JZ’s taking two spaces of my Warehouse.
If you don’t have these upgrades yet. You totally should.
(T) = Usually stands for turbo in a car’s engine designation, all cars bought from the shop are Naturally Aspirated (N/A) and as such does not come with a Turbocharger.
E39/GMW 530 (BMW 530 E39)
Engine: M52B30 3.5L VANOS
The cheapest car currently available, a solid and popular choice as a second car, although a bit big and heavy there is nothing stopping you from giving it more power via a power transplant.
Tezza (Toyota Altezza/Lexus IS200)
Engine: 3S-GE(T) BEAMS
Your starter car which is a 4-door sedan powered by a powerful Inline-4 manufactured by the two joint forces of Toyota and Yamaha. No matter what people say this car is not a force to be reckoned with. Although that would require a power transplant.
180X (Nissan 180SX/240SX/200SX/S13)
Arguably the best car for your money. The most popular choice of car for most drift beginners and for good reasons, it has a short wheelbase, plenty of power to learn how to slide and alot of aftermarket options.
Tourer V (Toyota Chaser Tourer V)
Engine: 1JZ-G(T)E VVTi
A great alternative to the GMW 530 with a more JDM approach. Also comes with a great engine that can dash out a lot of power.
X8 (Mazda RX8)
Engine: 1,3 Renesis
The odd child of every «second car» although not a bad car in itself the engine might cause some problems. Since the engine produces less torque than other typical piston engines this means that this car will be considerably faster than other cars. Unless you were to put in something that isn’t a rotary engine.
Mustang (Ford Mustang)
Engine: Coyote V8
American muscle at it’s finest. Note that the best spring upgrade makes this car obsolete because of the height and camber. Suspension tuning is therefore required.
330Z (Nissan 350Z)
A modern sports coupé with a screaming V6 engine found in the V35 Skyline.
S14 (Nissan 200SX/240SX/Silvia S14)
One of the «best cars» in the game, although this is subjective you cannot deny the good looks of this car and the great chassis. The stock engine found in this car is not a bad one either.
X7 (Mazda RX7 FD3S)
The older sibling of the RX8 and obviously the better one. Less weight, turbocharged from the factory and a timeless look. Be aware that the rotary engine makes this car faster than other piston powered cars.
These are the cars that are only available via Greens.
E190 (Mercedes-Benz W201 190E Evolution II)
Engine: M102 AMG
A legendary car for any DTM fan with a timeless look and bodykit.
C64 (Mercedes-Benz C63 AMG)
A modern luxury-sedan with enough power to make it powerslide gracefully around the track.
A86 (Toyota Corolla AE86 Levin)
Speedy Speed Boy! An obvious car for any Initial D fan that is not to be messed with, this little underdog is subject to getting the good old 2JZ swap treatment by the community.
Tuned cars are exclusive pre-tuned cars only available for greens although the more popular ones will be available in the marketplace for a high rupee price.
Z432 (Datsun Fairlady Z/240Z/Nissan S30)
A timeless classic sought after only by the finest of enthusiasts (or for those on a tight budget). Comes with an engine that absolutely does not belong in there which means that it was made for only one thing.
Example of different cars and their classes.
Do keep in mind that:
Lock kits does NOT increase your car class.
Platform upgrades does NOT increase your car class.
Transmission upgrades does NOT increase your car class.
Want your car to be more respected?
Engine upgrades DOES increase your car class.
Higher power output DOES increase your car class.
Weight reduction DOES increase your car class.
So car upgrades can be split into three or four different categories:
Engine is pretty self explainatory, here you will find new engine components that are bolt on to your car such as pistons, camshafts, engine heads, ECU’s, exhaust systems and best of all, turbochargers.
Platform is usually where you want to start when making a car build, here you will find mandatory upgrades that should be done before any big changes to the power output such as springs, brakes, rollcages.
Transmission is as important if not more so than Platform upgrades. Have too much power in your engine that your clutch can handle and you will experience big throttle lag which means that your car will basically not stop giving throttle unless you brake. It’s also very important to have a differential because you don’t want to have one tire spinning while drifting.
By the time you’re reading this you’re ready push your car to it’s absolute limit. Or you’re bored out of your mind and want to build something crazy.
So, engine swaps. The absolutely best way to squeeze every ounce of power from your vehicle.
Engine swapping is really easy, but it’s costly and it takes time.
Depending on your car/chassis and what engine you’re stuffing in it the time it cost and time it takes differentiates a whole lot.
Once you’ve swapped the engine you get the old one that used to sit in your car back in your inventory, feel free to sell it or stuff it into anything else.
2JZ swapping a Tezza bringing it from a stale E class straight into C with pure engine output.
After you have successfully done an engine swap your car’s engine will be brought back to 0. It’s going to be naturally aspirated, which means no turbo. That doesn’t necesarilly have to be a bad thing, sure the engine might not have as much power but it also has one less part to worry about.
With that being said I have one car in my garage that I want to keep non-turbo. Why? Mainly for the novelty of it but there is also an advantage. I don’t have to repair the turbo after Rivals because it doesn’t have one.
To keep your car N/A or not is totally up to you.
By the time you’re in this part you might be wondering «How do I perfect my car?»
Car with no tune upgrades.
Car with all tune upgrades.
Now here is the part that people fail to understand: Rear camber is not good for drifting. A drift car is best setup with the front wheels having a ton of camber with the rear ones being as straight as possible, why? Because when you’re turning at almost 90 degrees those half-tilted wheels will sit almost straight.
The russian text refers to the final drive, which means the Differential ratio.
To make your car rev higher all you need to do is to move the green Shift Up counter to the desired RPM. Keep in mind that the engine sound bugs out at 10,000RPM I therefore recommend to keep it at a reasonable level such as 9400RPM.
Please note that with wheel tuning you only need to buy wheel diameter ONCE on ANY car. When you then have bought wheel tuning, that diameter will be available.
For example: If I buy 17 inch diameter on my E190, when I then switch to my S14/180X which all have wheel tuning I can change them to 17 inch even though I only had 16 inch available.
Lock kits are essential in order to get really high scores and should therefore be the last thing to upgrade on your car.
Lock kits cost a total of 360,000 rupees or 100 greens and are therefore very valuable.
Lock kit settings are usually the same for every car if all of the platform upgrades has been bought.
This is how I usually setup my lock kits, do note that what works for me might not work for you. Try experimenting with the sliders untill you find something that you are comfortable with yourself.
Car styling is mostly visual but can give very small stat boosts.
Aerodynamics are pretty straightforward, you just put on whatever part you like the most.
Some cars such as the S15 and the BRZ have bodykits found in said tab.
Making wraps is something so big that I can make a separate guide to it. However I do not require the necessary skills to even make a decent wrap so I leave that task out to someone else.
Car wraps are made with visual programs such as Paint.NET, Photoshop, Gimp, etc.
To start out you need to download the wrap template for your desired car which can be found in the Create Wrap section.
One panel costs 5 Greens.
So you’re looking at a total of 25 greens to fully wrap your car.
Here are some wraps I made myself:
You can make them ugly
Or somewhere inbetween
The Community Marketplace is a great way to earn money. However, it requires some criteria.
You need to be level 12 and have a spare of 10 Greens in order to access the Marketplace, this is a one time purchase and you are free to access whenever you want.
Here you may find various bits and pieces.
Keep in mind that the Marketplace is always changing! Something that you wanted yesterday but couldn’t afford may be gone today.
The best part about the marketplace is to be able to buy cars with Tune mods for Rupees.